Self-guided W Trek

Day 1: Trek to Las Torres (The Towers) lookout; Refugio Torres Central

At 7am on the first day take the public bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park. The route passes grand estancias and flat pampas, where you'll spot ñandus (Patagonian ostrich), guanacos, and a variety of bird species.

After entering the national park at the Laguna Amarga area, you'll reach Torres Central. Here, you’ll leave your backpack and take your packed lunch (provided during your trek briefing in Puerto Natales held the day prior). Now you're ready to begin the W Trek’s first highlight: the trek to the Towers lookout.

An initial ascent follows the Ascencio River into the Ascencio Valley. At a lookout point, about an hour into the trek, pause to take in the beauty of the valley's rich beech forests, glaciers and waterfalls.

After this point, the path continues climbing through lush beech forests before ascending a gigantic terminal moraine (the ridge formed at a glacier’s endpoint). It's here, at an altitude of 900m, where you’ll be rewarded by the stunning sight of Las Torres. Stay a while to soak up the amazing views, take photos and have lunch.

You'll then retrace your steps back to Torres Central where you’ll have dinner and rest for the night.

Length of hike: 8-10hrs, 22km

Difficulty: Medium/demanding

Meals: Box lunch, dinner

Accommodation: Camping or room at Refugio Torres Central (meals in the refugio)

Day 2: Hike to Los Cuernos (The Horns); Refugio Los Cuernos

Enjoy breakfast at the refugio and request your packed lunch before setting out for the day.

You'll leave behind the crowds who are entering the park just to see Las Torres and will follow a route via Inge Lagoon – condors and other birds of prey may be circling the skies above you. The well-marked trail climbs 200m from the base of Mt Almirante Nieto (2,750m) and crosses the Bader River with the magnificent turquoise-hued lake a constant to your left until you reach your finishing point and accommodation for the night at Refugio Los Cuernos, or Domos Frances, depending on availability.

Settle in, enjoy a good meal among fellow travellers, and rest beneath the immense moraine.

Length of hike: 5-6hrs, 12km

Difficulty: Low/medium

Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, dinner

Accommodation: Camping or room at Refugio Los Cuernos (meals in the refugio)

Day 3: Trek to the French Valley; Refugio Paine Grande

A challenging trek to the heart of the Paine massif awaits you today. After breakfast, request your box lunch at the refugio and take the meandering path that leads you to the French River, a 1-2hr hike, depending on whether you stayed at Refugio Los Cuernos or Domos Frances the night before. On entering the French Valley – a glacial moraine surrounded by peaks and hanging glaciers – we’ll scramble over huge boulders and catch our first sight of the hanging glacier atop the valley.

From here you ascend for an hour through a dreamlike Japanese garden landscape before arriving at the French Valley viewpoint (the 'Plateau'). Your reward is a stunning bird’s eye view of granite peaks and hanging glaciers. On one side is the French Glacier and Paine Grande (3050m); while on the other, La Espada, La Hoja, La Máscara and the main and north 'horns' of Los Cuernos arch upwards. In the upper section of the valley, Mt Catedral and Mt Fortaleza loom like turrets above the landscape. You'll have plenty of time to rest and have lunch at the viewpoint, surrounded by these imposing peaks and open skies.

Your descent is via the same path until you reach the valley’s entrance, from where you’ll continue around the southwest side of Torres del Paine’s highest peak, Paine Grande. This final stretch passes through native firebush and evergreen beech forests to Refugio Paine Grande, by the shores of Lake Pehoe. You'll have dinner and rest here for the night.

Length of hike: 9-10hrs, 18km

Difficulty: Medium/demanding

Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, dinner

Accommodation: Camping or room at Refugio Paine Grande (meals in the refugio)

Day 4: Trek to Glacier Grey; Refugio Grey

Start early after breakfast, ascending 200m on the winding trail to Laguna Los Patos. It's here where we’ll see sections of the massive Southern Patagonian Ice Field, a geological phenomenon that still guards many unexplored peaks.

Continuing on to Glacier Grey’s lookout point, you pass forests and rivers, with possible sightings of the spectacled and flightless steamer ducks. Have lunch at the lookout point with the monumental Glacier Grey at your feet. You might catch sight of ice calving from its huge walls into the freezing waters below.

If you'd like to do a longer trek today, you can visit the old 'Los Guardas' campsite which has a fantastic view of Glacier Grey from higher ground. Alternatively, there is a fantastic opportunity to go on a 2.5-hour kayaking excursion in the afternoon where you'll paddle around the huge floating icebergs that have calved from the glacial wall. You'll first receive a safety briefing from a specialist guide covering the kayak, paddling, route and conditions. All necessary equipment will be provided - neoprene suit, waterproof jacket, gloves, boots, kayak skirt and life vest. Advance booking and payment is required - please see the 'Additional Notes' section below.

Accommodation for the night is at Refugio Grey, on the shore of Lake Grey.

Length of hike: 4-5hrs, 12km

Difficulty: Medium

Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, dinner

Accommodation: Camping or room at Refugio Grey (meals in the refugio)

Day 5: Optional ice hike or kayak, hike or optional grey boat trip; Puerto Natales

This morning is yours to enjoy at leisure! Options include a 5-hr ice hike on Grey Glacier, a 2½-hr kayak excursion in front of Glacier Grey or an additional hike (8km, about 3hrs return) to the hanging bridges for a magnificent view of Grey Glacier. Note that independent hikers without guides are only permitted to go to the second hanging bridge. You must book your optional excursion in advance so do get in touch to reserve.

You’ll later hike back along the same path from Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande to catch the last catamaran across Lake Pehoé at 5pm. Please check catamaran and walking times with the refugio staff in the morning to ensure you arrive in time.

While walking, take in views of Paine Grande and the granite walls of Cordon Olguín. On the other side of Lake Pehoé, the local bus will take you to Puerto Natales. Since you will be arriving in town at around 10pm we recommend spending the night there.

Instead of hiking from Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande, there is an option to take the Grey III catamaran from Refugio Grey to view the impressive glacier face and sail to the southern end of the lake, from where a private transfer will take you to Puerto Natales. You must book this option in advance and it incurs an extra cost.

Length of hike: 4-5hrs, 12km

Difficulty: Medium

Meals: Breakfast, box lunch