Valparaiso

Valparaiso, or Valpo as the locals call it, in its heyday was the richest, most modern and forward thinking city of Chile if not, Latin America. For example, it is home to the oldest Spanish language newspaper in continuous publication in the world, it has Latin America's oldest stock exchange and housed Chile's first public library. The historic quarter gained UNESCO status in 2003 and has since been undergoing restoration and now houses a wonderful range of boutique hotels, great restaurants, art museums and workshops. Although the city sprawls over 44 hills (cerros), the main historic areas are concentrated on just two: the Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion.

It is impossible to visit Valpo without noticing its graffiti and street art or murals. From small tags to huge building sides, intense faces and political messages, Valparaiso has it all. Many of Chile's most famous street artists are born and raised in Valpo and are now famous world wide. If you fancy a city tour with a difference or would actually have an interest in learning more about Chile's street art history and current trends then there are graffiti and street art tours available - some even give you the option to try your hand at your own mural.

With the oldest funicular dating from 1883, Valpo originally had 29 funiculars - 16 are still fully functioning, transporting people up to the cities many hillsides. Try the Artilleria for great views of the city and El Peral, Reina Victoria & La Concepcion (currently closed for restoration) for the best access to and from Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion.

Valpo has undergone a food explosion in the last 5-10 years with new restaurants popping up: incredible seafood, chef taster menus, roof top views and cocktail bars sit side by side with the city's traditional restaurants in the port area.

For many, the main reason to visit Valparaiso and the surrounding countryside is the possibility of visiting the homes of Chile's own Pablo Neruda, the 1971 Nobel Prize winner for Literature. He was a prominent political character, eccentric in his style of living and the author of some truly beautiful poetry. Many of his poems talk of Chile and Valparaiso - there is something quite special about reading a poem describing the port city, whilst looking over it, from the very desk at which it was written. The city also has many budding poets eager to share their latest pieces.

As you drive from Santiago towards Valparaiso, the last valley you pass through before making your final descent to the port is the Casablanca Valley, famous for its white wines and Pinot Noir. There are plenty of vineyards you could visit on route or even use Valpo as a base to spend the day visiting a number of the premium wineries in the area.

Much of the accommodation of Valparaiso is based on the UNESCO hills in lovingly restored wooden homes. Regardless of your budget, you will find a boutique hotel to suit you.