San Martín de los Andes

The small resort of San Martín is one of the prettiest towns in Argentina. Like its big sister Bariloche, it was founded near the end of the 19th century on land belonging to the Pueche people in the hills on the edge of Lake Lácar. The same towns were laid out in exactly the same way, but while Bariloche boomed and grew, San Martín has retained its small-town charm, with its characteristic alpine architecture of stone and rustic wood. San Martín is the main access town for Lanín National Park. 

San Martín's setting has made it the adventure sports capital of northern Argentina, but there's much to enjoy in the town itself in between hiking and taking to the waters of the surrounding lakes. The Plaza San Martín is a delight to relax in, with a good town museum and the nearby Pastera Museo del Che, a converted barn dedicated to Ché Guevara who stayed here in 1952, so memorably captured in his book The Motorcycle Diaries. San Martín has a good and eclectic dining scene.

San Martín is perhaps best known to hikers as the gateway to Lanín National Park, but the town has plenty of gorgeous day hikes on its doorstep. One of the best is the ascent of Cerro Falkner, whose trailhead lies an hour's drive from town. The ascent zigzags through lush forest. Once you've cleared the treeline, the views suddenly open up 360 degrees with a skyline that sweeps across Lanín Volcano and Cerro Tronador.

Another great volcano day hike is the crater of Achen Ñiyeu volcano. This striking route starts on the beach of Laguna Verde in Lanín National Park, through forests and then across the black sandy desert landscape. On reaching the volcano, a demanding 45-minute ascent takes you to the edge of the crater, with its panoramic views of Lanín Volcano and its expansive glacier.

The waters of Lake Machonico, 30km from San Martín on the Route of the Seven Lakes, are made for exploration by kayak. The surrounding mountains shelter the lake from the Andean winds, creating a perfect calm environment for kayakers of all abilities. The lake's shoreline is easily explored, after which guides lead you to the mouth of the Río Hermoso river, to paddle upstream to Pichi Machonico lake – a tiny gem that's overlooked by the most popular tourist routes in the area. A sandy beach at its far end is the perfect place to stop for lunch, before slowly returning in the afternoon to the starting point on Lake Machonico for the drive back to San Martín. 

San Martín has some great mountain biking trails, and the Laguna Rosales route is one of our favourites. It starts easily on a wide path where guides can make sure that everyone is familiar with their bikes, before leading along a series of trails, slopes, short climbs and stream crossings, where open country alternates with temperate forest. After lunch, the route continues to Paraje Trompul, on Curruhinca Mapuche land, following old logging paths to the northern shore of Lake Lacar. The route has plenty of ascents (none too strenuous), but your efforts are rewards by reaching a small sandy beach known as La Islita, which is the perfect place for a refreshing jump in the waters. From Lake Lacar, it's an easy return along the trail to San Martín.

One of the most spectacular stretches of road in Argentina, the Route of the Seven Lakes (La Ruta de los Siete Lagos) winds south from San Martín to Villa La Angostura along RN40. It can easily be driven in a day, though you should allow plenty of time to stop and explore its succession of outstanding lake and mountain vistas. The road brushes the shores of Lake Lago before turning inland to descend towards Lake Machonico, then through thick forest that turn fiery reds and coppers in autumn to Lake Hermoso. The route then takes you through Nahuel Huapi National Park past the Cascada Vuliignanco waterfall towards the beaches of Lakes Villarino and Falkner. A diversion well worth taking leads to the picturesque Villa Traful on the shores of Lake Traful. The final stretch of road threads its way past Lake Espejo Grande to Villa La Angostura on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi.