Category: Planning & Tips

Refugio is the Spanish word for shelter, and this is exactly what they are to me. A place where hikers from across the globe can meet, share their experiences, eat together and find protection from bad weather. After a long day of hiking, giving your all and carrying a heavy pack, it’s always nice to […]

Having worked for many years as a guide in Patagonia during which I visited Torres del Paine more than a hundred times, I thought I was well versed in the different hotel options within and around the national park. But my recent trip back to the area with Swoop was a great eye-opener and a […]

When it comes to exploring the Lake Districts of Chile and Argentina, people often think of them as discrete places. You choose to visit one or the other and base yourself in Bariloche or Puerto Varas accordingly. It’s actually easy to include both on your Patagonia trip by road or by cross-border trek, but it […]

Sometimes when you’re travelling, the place where you stay is as much of a draw as the destination itself. When you’re really lucky, the accommodation is its perfect complement, with its architecture and setting helping to draw out the sides of a place you never expected. The luxury lodge at Tierra Chiloé is one of […]

El Chaltén is a small mountain town in Los Glaciares National Park, the hiking hub of Argentinian Patagonia. It’s a place replete with mountaineering history and carries a slightly funky and hippy-ish vibe that’s a lot of fun to explore.  Los Glaciares is the Argentinian mirror to Torres del Paine in Chile, with all the […]

Note: This post was updated in September 2024 to reflect recent changes in the Argentinian economy. We have a joke in Argentina that when God was creating the nations of the world he gave them all two virtues. France, for example, got wonderful food and avant-garde fashion. Italy received historic monuments and fast motorcars. Saudi Arabia […]

I’m lucky enough to have spent eight years of my life travelling in the Andes and Himalayas. Between my trips, I worked in an outdoor shop in Covent Garden, London. I loved it and quickly became one of the top boot fitters in the branch, relishing the chance to chat about trekking and get people […]

There is no wrong way to experience Torres del Paine. Certain people are looking for the classic backpacking experience of an Original W Trek, with four nights spent out at the campsites and refugios along the trail. Others are seeking the amenities of a traditional luxury hotel and will feel most at home with Explora or Tierra as their base. […]