Thousands of tiny black dots sprinkle the shoreline as the ferry approaches Isla Magdalena. This is one of the continent’s largest penguin sanctuaries, a population of approximately 120,000 which peaks during its breeding season from the end of December until February. During the colder months however, they migrate up the coast to Brazil in search of warmer waters, traveling up to 3000km.
On their return to the Chilean coastline they will go back to the same nests under the bushes made the previous year.
Both the males and the females work together sharing their penguin babysitting duties; one incubating the chicks whilst the other goes out to the sea to feed. Often the penguins will swim alongside the ferry, leaping out of the water before plummeting back down below the surface to catch their prey.
Once at the reserve you can follow a single trail that runs across Isla Magdalena. Starting at the dock it runs to a red and white lighthouse perched on the hilltop.
© Joannis Duran (flickr)
The ropes on either side keep you from wandering to far in order to preserve the penguins habitat. However, the penguins will waddle en masse across the path to reach the rocky beach. These curious creatures often approach you to inspect your laces or have a quick peck at your trouser legs, so don’t panic. Be careful not to move to close to their nests. These vigilant penguins don’t mess around when it comes to the safety of their family as they cock their heads from side to side as a warning signal to retreat!
Found only along the coast of Chile and Argentina, Magellanic penguins are named for Spanish explorer Hernando de Magallanes, who first witnessed them on his voyage around the tip of South America in 1520. Often they are referred to as ‘jackass’ penguins because of the extremely noisy, donkey-like braying sound they make when excited. Magellanic Penguins are often seen performing the “ecstatic display”. This can either be part of the mating ritual or can merely be indicative of territory ownership. Birds performing this display stretch their neck and point their beaks skywards whilst spreading their wings and making the braying noise.
© Charlie Summers (Flickr)
Key Facts:
Height: 61-76 cm
Weight: 2.7kg and 6.5kg (males much heavier than females)
Age: can live us to 25 years in the wild, but have reached 30years in captivity
Spend most of their time: allopreening – looking after their feather to enhance their impermeability
Diet: small fish and squid
Habitat: water
Nests: burrows under rocks and bushes
Eggs are incubated for: 40days
Baby penguins are born in: November
Natural enemies: Petrels and Orcas
Adults: black and white
Adolescents: mottled grey
Babies: Grey and fluffy
© Chris Gomersall
An easier way to see penguins in their natural habitat is to visit the Pingüinera de Seno Otway, on the mainland less than an hour northwest of Punta Arenas. It’s open longer than Isla Magdalena—from October to March. Founded in 1990, the reserve occupies 2 km (1 mi) of coastline. There are only about 4,000 – 8,000 penguins at this reserve but the experience is still as astounding as just one penguin is captivating enough to watch for hours!
Seno Otway is also wide open in terms of the timing of a visit. Isla de Magdalena requires 2 hours plus each way by boat (depending on the seas), and leaves only at 3:30pm three days a week. Another upside to Seno Otway is that you have it mostly to yourself and there is no time limit (Magdalena is a semi-structured one hour visit, and it can sometimes be a bit shorter if the weather is bad). The obvious disadvantage to Seno Otway compared to Isla Magdalena is that it is a much smaller colony and the landscape is less dramatic (the colony on Isla de Magdalena is more than ten times larger, and the penguins are literally everywhere). Both are extremely worthwhile trips, and they are different enough to do both if you have time!
Swoop offers several varied trips that include a trip to see the penguins at the Seno Otway Penguin Reserve.
Patagonian Andean Fjords & Lake District Trip
Patagonia Parks and Wildlife Trip
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